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| Fly Fishing Great Lakes Steelhead For Beginners; Helping to get you started..... by Sean Swatsky
So you have decided to join the millions of people that have coupled
into the fly fishing lifestyle. We say
There is a long equipment list in which you’ll want to gather prior to going out on the water. Some items you may have from prior fly fishing experience. On the other hand, you may have never touched a fly rod. This list is the bare essentials you will want to carry with you on any given day on the water. Let’s cover the basics and we’ll go into depth further into this article on each component. Here’s the list;
Fly rods are a very important key component to your arsenal of steelheading gear. They are rated by the weight line they are designed to cast ie: 5wt, 6wt, 7wt and so on (see fly lines explained). It is crucial that the line & rod weight match to allow proper loading of the rod to make casting effective and efficient. Rod blanks are made in different actions; slow, moderate, fast, and everything in-between. Fast action blanks flex at the top 30% of the rod, medium action around 60%, and slow action around 90% of the rod flexes under load. A fast action blank will assist in the casting learning curve as they are more forgiving and take less effort to cast than slower action rods where timing is much more critical. The most versatile rod for a beginner steelheader is a 7wt rod that is around 10’ in length on a fast action blank. The longer rod will allow for better line control, mending, and casting, while the softer tip section will allow more of a cushion on the tippet so you don’t “break-off” as many fish while fighting them. Most rods 7 weight rods have an extended fighting butt which is used for added leverage for fighting fish.
Most good reels today are made from aircraft grade aluminum in which is lighter, better quality, and harder. They are machined from one solid round piece of material and are extremely light and durable. They usually have an anodized coating to protect it from scratches and wear. Cheaper reels are usually made from aluminum that is melted and poured into a “cast” or mold. The reel is then machined in a secondary process until completion. Cast reels are generally heavier and less durable than machined bar stock aluminum and have a tendency to crack. The reason for this is because during the casting process, air bubbles (porosity) can become trapped within the cast and make weak spots within the frame. Large Arbor- The inner most section of the spool is called the arbor. The diameter is significantly larger and generally wider as well. A large/wide arbor allows for larger overall line capacities and backing that is required for big game fishing such as steelhead & salmon. The larger arbor also allows for faster line pick-up per revolution of the reel than a standard arbor reel which enables you reel in the line at a faster rate of speed on a running fish. Mid Arbor - Mid arbor reels are designed with an arbor diameter about 25% smaller than a large arbor type. This allows for more backing & line capacity which makes it a great tool for “big game” saltwater fishing when fish will run 100+ yards! Reels are sized by the manufacturer for the weight of line they are designed to hold along with a fixed amount of backing so be sure to check the specification of the reel prior to buying it. The more backing you fill the spool with, the larger the arbor diameter becomes. Drag Systems Explained The single most important feature in a steelhead reel is the drag system. Technology used in manufacturing drag systems has come a long way over the past few years. The use of “one-way” clutch style release which allows the reel to “free-spin” in one direction, conical drag systems, and sealed bearings have all increased the overall performance of fly reels today. Drag Fundamentals - There are many different types of drag systems out there. These days most are of the compression type (screw type knob pulls the drag material in contact with the drag surface plate which adds friction between them both. Different internal materials commonly used are delron, teflon, & cork. These materials have greater wear properties and they displace heat under frictional load better than any other material thus resulting in a consistent drag. The same basic concepts are applied to all drag systems; adding pressure to the material adds friction, friction=drag, friction=heat. The more surface area (size) of the materials, the higher consistency and performance you can attain by being able to add more friction while displacing more heat effectively. This all adds up to a successful drag system. Newer style conical drag systems are made of cones that are pulled together to add friction vs. the use of pads. A cone has a larger surface area in than a disc thus better performance, smoother drag, and a more consistent pressure applied to the drag material and it can all be fit into a smaller/lighter system. Sealed Drag vs. Unsealed Drag - On a unsealed drag system, grit and water enter the drag system when will cause it to fail. If water enters the drag, the drag will “shudder” when a fish is running (the drag will sporadically catch & slip). Sealed drags will not allow any debris or water to enter the system thus giving you better overall performance by prohibiting contamination to the system. Reasons for Drag System Failures - There are three major reasons why drag systems fail:
Backing – There are multiple reasons for the need of backing on a fly reel. The main reason is simply that fly lines are fairly short (60’-90’) in length and since spool arbor diameters are fairly small, the backing takes up unused space while adding to the arbor diameter which increases the revolution to line pick-up ratio. With a tiny arbor size, the fly line would coil link a spring, while trying to take up line as a fish runs toward you would be nearly impossible. Also, for big game fishing such as steelhead or salmon, if a fish makes a long run you need to be able to accommodate the run with extra line so the need for more line is crucial. The two common types of backing to choose from;
Fly Line Overview It is crucial to match the weight of a line to the size rod that is going to be use. The “Weight” is a pre-specified weight average of the first 30 feet of a given fly line, measured in grains which is set by the ASA (American Sportfishing Association). Each line weight has a weight tolerance in place to ensure manufacturers keep to this standard. To be able to cast a line, the rod must “load” (store the generated energy from the rod flex) under the weight of the line and then release the load thus “shooting” the lines weight in front of you. If you use a line that is smaller than the rod size, the rod would not flex and store the built energy which would make it difficult if not impossible to cast effectively. Click here to see a great article on fly lines by Cortland Line Company. The line you buy will last a few years if taken care of by cleaning it with a fly line cleaner and conditioner after each use. It is important to note that “you get what you pay for” with fly line. Cheap fly lines simply do not perform as well as high end fly lines. The two biggest problems that a new fly fisherman will experience with a cheap line are floatability as well as flexibility. For steelhead conditions, it is imperative that a line stay buoyant and flexible in cold condition. It will make line management effortless and learning quicker. A good line will float high on the water’s surface and it will also pick-up off the water with ease which is important when mending or trying to control a drift. A low quality line usually gets stiff in cold weather and will sink which will make it near impossible to control.
The
leader is the line that is connected between your fly line and your fly.
It is generally tapered incrementally down in size from the butt section
(the section that is connected to your fly line) down to the tip
section. A standard length for a steelhead leader is about 9’ Tippet - As you fish you will undoubtedly get snagged and break the tip of the leader off, thus, shortening the overall length. It is at this point you will add more line (or tippet material) to maintain the integrity of the leader. It is important to note the actual diameter when comparing tippet materials from different manufacturers. For steelhead, always carry 0x/1x/2x/3x/4x with you. This will allow you to build onto your leader as it breaks while on the water and it will also aid in changing with conditions.
Tippet Sizing Chart
Monofilament- Monofilament is popular as a line material because of its low memory and suppleness, which make it easy to cast and handle. Furthermore, mono boasts excellent knot strength and abrasion resistance, and has an inherent stretch that makes it forgiving when subjected to sudden strain. However, mono also absorbs water, and can lose as much as 15 percent of its rated breaking strength when saturated. mono weakens considerably under repeated exposure to the sun's ultraviolet rays. Fluorocarbon- Fluorocarbon's biggest selling point is its low visibility. This is due to its refractive index - the degree to which light bends or refracts as it passes through a substance - which can be as low as 1.42. That's very close to the refractive index of water (1.3). It contains more material than mono, is non-porous, and has a harder finish. It's virtually a solid material that's denser than water. That means it sinks and doesn't absorb water, the latter quality enabling it to maintain its rated breaking strength whether wet or dry. It also has very little stretch and is very abrasion-resistant and less susceptible to damage from the sun and chemicals. On the down-side, original fluorocarbon is much stiffer than nylon monofilament and retains a fair amount of memory. That's why fluorocarbon has excelled as a leader material, but hasn't been manageable as a fishing line. Another drawback has been price, since fluorocarbon leader material costs considerably more than monofilament Tapered Leaders - A pre-built tapered leader starts at a large diameter on the butt section, then tapers smaller and smaller until you get to the tip section. The package contents will note the design of the leader by use of the X-Factor. [For example; 9’/3x Tapered, Knotless] This is telling you the content of the package 9’ in length, 3x tip section, it is tapered, and there is no connection knot. Leaders must be tapered so there is enough energy to turn-over your fly and weight during a cast or roll cast. Building Your Own Leaders – Building a leader is the means of tying together many different sizes and lengths of tippet material to accomplish the same results as a tapered leader…large butt section down to small tip section. There are strict formulas that designate the diameter and length for each section of the leader that is required to allow for proper fly turn-over. Formulas are specified for different overall lengths and final tip sizes as shown in the chart below. The use of a Double Surgeons knot is used to attach each section of tippet together because of the superior ability to connect two different diameters of line without losing strength. Steelhead Leader Formula for 9’ Built Leaders
( Note: Follow this chart for a successful hand tied leader) Leader Connections – Connecting your leader to your fly line. There are two common types of leaders used by most fly fishermen. A loop end in which the leader has a “pre-tied” loop at the butt section of the leader, or “knotless” in which is a straight butt section with no knot. Loop ends: On some fly lines the manufacturer supplies a loop on the tip section of the line. This makes it simple to add a pre-made leader via a loop-to-loop connection. If there is no loop in your line one can be easily added by tying a small double surgeons loop at the end of the line and then looping together your line & leader. You can also purchase loop end connection systems in which the use of braided line slips over your fly line and heat-shrink tubing locks it into place. This gives you a smaller general diameter loop and a cleaner look. Knotless: With a knotless leader you can connect using a few different methods. First, the use of a nail knot is very common because if the small knot side ant it easily goes through the guides. You can also tie a double surgeon’s loop and use a loop connection.
When fishing Fly fishing Great Lakes
Steelhead, most fishermen use floats to help control the depth at which
the fly will run the water. They also assist in the subtle take
sometimes associated with steelhead during cold winter
Split shots are used to help keep your fly down in the strike zone where the fish are. As a basic rule, you’ll want to place your split shot approximately 10-18” from your fly. You will need a few different sizes of shot so you can make adjustments as needed depending on the waters you are fishing. There are many different manufacturers of shot so pick one out and try them. Another alternative is an environmental friendly “Lead Free” shot that I prefer to use. It holds in place well and makes less of an impact in the environment than lead. Just as using a float, re-adjust the placement of your shot periodically if you are not having a successful day. It could be as subtle of a change as moving it two inches up or down and it can make all the difference in the world. There are many option when purchasing shot, I would suggest a shot system in which comes in a few different sizes.
The basic tools you will need to carry with you;
T Split Shot Assortment Sun Glasses Fly Line Conditioner/Cleaner
Vest, Chest Packs, or Wading Jacket
This is a decision you will want to take a look at to weigh your options. There are pros and cons of all. Chest packs are the most commonly used right now as they allow you to carry anything you need and they are modular, allowing you to simply click accessories onto them. They allow you to carry all the equipment you can possible needs and even throw in a lunch in the backpack. Wading jacket are nice because they’re waterproof and more comfortable than a chest pack. You can also opt for both a pack and a jacket. Vests are not common place anymore because of the technological advances in chest packs and wading jackets.
There are many options when looking for waders such as neoprene or breathable. Going on a limb I’m going to say forget the neoprene. You can stay just as warm in breathable waders than neoprene’s and the breathable waders are much more comfortable. You can use the breathable waders all season long be it warm our cold. Again, your options are endless hen it comes to waders. They can range from $50 - $700 depending on the manufacturer. Most breathable waders have a neoprene sock foot in which you need to get wading boots to go over them. Lightweight boots are available everywhere. Ensure you buy a pair of boots that are big enough for you to fit 3 pair of socks on underneath. The first pair should be a sock liner made of wicking fabric to remove moisture from your foot, followed by a standard heavy sock, followed by thick wool socks. This seems to b the best socking system I have come up with. If your boots are to small they will squeeze your feet, restrict your circulation, and cause frozen toes. Frostbite is a serious and dangerous hazard, be smart.
Here is a list of proven basic patterns you MUST have with you for Great Lakes Steelhead along with color variance options.
Some other articles. You can also check out our instructional videos to help get you started by - Clicking Here
We hope you find the information in this article useful and helpful. It is designed to give you the basic tools you need to make some educated purchases on your first Great Lakes Steelhead fly fishing outfit. Once you have gathered your equipment, it is imperative you spend some time out in an open field and practice casting. Get the rhythm down and get comfortable with the action of the rod. Click here for casting instructions & videos.
If you have any questions or comments, please email me.
Sean Swatsky “Swatskee”
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